Article - Fashion in Eretz Israel
This series of stamps illuminates the changes that took place in Israeli fashion from the modern Jewish return to the land of Israel to present.
1882-1948: The Oriental style
During the period of the Jewish settlement in the new villages in the late nineteenth century, an oriental influence in fashion arrived from Europe, reflected pronouncedly in the designs of Bezalel Academy of Art and Design (1906-1926). In the 1920s, Orientalism imbued the choreographic style and stage costumes created by Baruch Agadati and Rina Nikova, among others. By the mid 1940s, the trend towards seeking root in the ancient East widened out to Canaanite past.
1948-1972: The Ethnic Style
Upon the establishment of the state of Israel, a sense of identification with ancient Jewish roots became part of the Israel cultural discourse. This trend was supported by a series of national symbols adapted from the Jewish people. New immigrants established and entered the fashion industry in Israel. Garment an textile plants, built mainly in Tel Aviv, attained a high level of professionalism and flourished.
Efforts to design western fashion with an Eastern orientation which in the 1930s were na?ve and superficial, became more sophisticated during the 1950s, 60's and 70's, imbuing the fashion industry in Israel with a distinctive touch and accruing it with an international reputation for distinctive and qualitative fashion. The Maskit fashion firm, with its blend of East and west, played a prominent role in the 1960s. Three export branches stood at that time: knits, leatherwear, and swimsuits, with the Gottex and Begged-Or among the leaders.
1973-1990: The International style
The ethnic style which typified Israeli fashion theretofore, was overtaken by the Western international style during this period, with most fashion firms relinquishing the distinctive Israeli style. Competition by fashion items manufactured in the developing countries wreaked Israeli export fashion and resulted in the disappearance of some on the firms. Nevertheless, domestic demand rose, independent houses offering, distinctive personal styles.
1990-2006: the Technological – Personal Style
The 1990s were characterized by a breakdown of traditional concept ional modes and the rise of a minimalist trend that emphasized clean shapes and lines. At the same time, the personal look gained popularity, along with strong trend toward retro, especially of the 1960s and 70's. Israeli fashion showed freshness of design with entry into the local fashion market of young generation of graduates of design schools. Opening their own studios, or joining existing firms, these young designers aimed for distinctive design style in the global complex. The period held out the promise of a renewed flowering of Israeli fashion domestically and abroad by implementing advanced production methods and an investment in original design.
Senior lecturer, Shenkar College of Engineering and Design.
The series of stamps was selected from work submitted by students in the Visual Communications Department and Design.
The survey above is based on research for the book, Changing Styles (Raz, a. Yedioth Ahronoth, Tel Aviv 1996.)